News for September 2006
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Moving on from our August update, nephew Paul, his wife Leigh and their two children, Rebecca and Ben, arrived safely in France and joined us at Corre. We were climbing locks at that time and as the water levels on the canal bank approaching the locks were a bit low, ladders within the locks had to be used to organise roping up to secure the boat. Some of the ladders are not that easy to use but when there is no choice they have to be negotiated. We were using a 'telecommande', or as we call it a 'zapper' , to set the locks in motion. This was a good way to involve Rebecca and Ben who incidentally were very good about wearing their buoyancy aids. It was fortunate that there were playground areas where we moored up so they had opportunity to play. Their visit was very enjoyable. We said our goodbyes at Bains les Bains and the next morning Diane went to the Auberge (restaurant / hotel) opposite the mooring point to seek a taxi to go into the town to replenish supplies. Very kindly, a gentleman offered to drive us into the town where there also happened to be a fairly big market. He gave us some guidance about purchases. The boot of the taxi that we ordered for our return was quite full with our buying of regional foods and stocking up in the small supermarket.
Our onward journey from Bains les Bains was interesting. Having spoken with a gentleman from VNF (equivalent to British Waterways) we thought that we would be able to moor up safely by a particular lock. Usually the personnel from VNF are very accurate. Looking at the map we thought that it was a bit ambitious but trusted the advice that it would take about 3 hours. Having travelled 1 hour another VNF person declared that we should count 3 hours from that point to our destination . A quick calculation said that we should arrive soon after 18.00. However, we obviously were taking somewhat longer over negotiating the locks with Diane having to climb ladders to work with Paul to rope up. As a narrow boat is a bit lower than many other boats the system working through locks is a bit different but not unmanageable. On this occasion we were racing against time and missed our destination by one lock. Yes, the locks close at this time of year at 19.00 and the electrical supply to them is switched off. In many ways this is good, as once moored up there is no disturbance from boats / barges passing by, however on this occasion we would have liked 10 minutes more to achieve the objective for the day. Mooring up was not easy but we managed something to secure us overnight using the stern as access to and from the boat. When the locks opened the next morning at 0700 we quickly moved on through the next lock and secured the boat and ourselves more safely, had breakfast and organised ourselves for the next lap.
Our next stretch started with the help of lock keepers, on this occasion two young women who worked well together and worked well with us. One of them even arrived at a lock that was supposed to be self operating to give us a bit of extra help. We then moved on down locks to Epinal which will be our winter moorings. It was useful to find out a little more about the town and a visit to the tourist office allowed us to pick up some interesting information which will help us to plan for the winter months. From Epinal we moved onto the Nancy 'Embranchment' (16 locks in all; for us, 5 climbing and 11 descending using a 'zapper'). To avoid the ladders in the locks when ascending Diane walked from lock to lock which were quite close to each other. The only problem was between the last 2 locks. Having walked the length of the towpath, only to find that it was fenced off, it was a case of returning to the previous lock to find a road to reach this last lock. Fortunately a VNF man in a van recognised that I was a boater, made quite a long reverse journey to give me a lift. We do find people very accommodating. As we moved from the 'Embranchment' towards Strasbourg we were advised by a VNF person about a mooring point at Varengville. We were pleased to have taken his advice when we saw the alternative mooring point by noisy works. We were well served with shops to top us up on provisions.
We were then our way to Hesse where we had arranged to meet up with a good friend from Birmingham, Alan. To do this we had to go up a lock 15 metres deep. We knew that there were 2 floating bollards inside the lock for roping up but the rest was a mystery. The lock keeper was keen to fit us into the lock with 3 other boats but it just felt too tight and so we reversed out of the lock to await our turn. Once we entered the lock we were at the front and virtually touching the front wall which later became a gate. The rope was slotted around a big pipe and the rope had to be slipped up the pipe as the boat went up. It was difficult to hold the boat and climbing due to the inconvenient (for us) spacing of the bollards and pipes. The15 metres seemed to take for ever, it was actually 15 minutes. On the return journey, going down the lock using a centre rope on a floating bollard was very easy. We learn from previous experiences.
In between times a good friend from Birmingham, Alan, joined us at Hesse to spend a week boating and sight seeing. Setting off with Alan we went through 2 tunnels and arrived at the Arzviller 'Plan Incline' (Incline Plane). That was a lovely experience. The plane has replaced 17 locks which to work through would have taken several hours. In the space of 2 minutes the journey is done. It was built in the 1960's and attracts thousands of visitors per year.
We used a picnic table at the bottom of the plane to absorb the workings of the machinery. Our ongoing journey took us to Saverne, a picturesque and floral town. It happened to be a fete day when we arrived and as we descended the 5.5 metre lock in the town centre so a band began to play, we felt welcomed! Within a couple of days boating from Saverne we were moored up in Strasbourg, a very impressive city. As we went through the final lock giving access to Strasbourg a gentleman spoke to us saying "the gates of paradise are opening", he was obviously proud of his home town and rightly so. Using the tram service, a short walk through a park from the mooring, we were able to visit the incredible Cathedral and the beautiful areas of the old part of the town including La Petite France. We were fortunate enough to be in the Cathedral at 12.31 when the astronomical clock chimes and the figurines move; the disciples, the angel and a cock which flapped his wings and crowed three times. Known as the 'Pillar of Angels' it dates back as far as around 1230. We naturally had to have sustenance for our sightseeing and had a delicious Moules / Frites lunch (Mussels and Chips). As private boats and hire boats are not allowed through the centre of the town we went on a trip boat. At least the commentary sorted out a little bit of confusion in our minds about the buildings that we had passed in Idling By, i.e.. the European Parliament, the amphitheatre and the court of Human Rights.
Alan took his leave at Strasbourg to return to England and we also said goodbye to Coots who noisily kept us company over a couple of days whilst moored up. We started our return to Saverne where Alain and Suzanne (French friends) joined us for a days boating. On that trip we could clearly see a change in the colours of the trees journeying through the forest areas. The scenery has been varied and interesting. There was a pleasant interlude at Lutzelbourg when another friend, again called Alan (en route from Italy to England), joined us for lunch and an afternoon in catching up on news. The experience of boating in France is wonderful but keeping in touch with folks from Britain is also important.
We are now in the last weeks of boating for this season and gradually making our way towards Nancy which will be another new discovery for us. We have time to do a few more kilometres before mooring up and of course the locks will feature too although nothing as deep as the 15 metre lock recently experienced. The stretch of locks that we are currently doing is with a 'zapper' and so we are free to move when ever we wish (if the electricity is on). We need to do a bit of forward planning but feel that we can boat at a leisurely pace. We intend to make the most of our last few weeks before installing ourselves at Epinal.