News for September 2007
This month we have had some different experiences boating through Belgian waters on our way to Armentieres and have been intrigued by some of the political issues that have emerged between the Wallonie region (French speaking) and Flanders (Flemish speaking). People may be aware that as we up date the Web there is no government in Belgium because of the difficuty in forming a coalition government and even some debate about Wallonie and Flanders becoming independent. However, for us as boaters we have had other things to consider. We knew that we had to clear Givet and Peronne by certain dates in September because of stoppages. We knew that we had plenty of time but did not wish to take any chances especially at this time of the boating season. The stoppages were due to finish mid October, in principle!
On the river Meuse, we left Revin mid morning and headed in the direction of Fumay where we stopped to have some lunch and then moved on to Vireux Wallerand for an overnight stay. There was not much traffic because of the stoppages and fortunately for us there was a lock keeper at our first lock of the day as the blue bar failed to activate the lock. As it was so quiet the lock keeper was particularly pleased to have a chat and to help us out. After Vireux Wallerand we moved on to Givet and loved seeing the statues along a certain part of the river bank. Through to Dinant and a lunch time stop at Namur gave us a fortuitous meeting with a British couple who boat regularly in Belgium. They provided us with some useful information about moorings en route in the absence of any detailed maps. We had previously experienced the journey to Namur, and as a consequence were familiar with the big locks although not necessarily very deep. Periodically we saw jet water skiers and canoes and even a ski jump in the middle of the river although the wild life was making more use of that than the water skiers.
On leaving Namur the boating began to change. There were some very big commercial barges, up to 80 metres long and plenty of them. We were moving towards Charleroi and had been advised on a few occasions not to moor there. In fact we were encouraged to stay above a particular lock overnight by the waterways staff and to set off early the next day to clear this town with such a lovely sounding name. We heeded the advice and the next day travelled through locks during the first part of the day with a Dutch couple on a boat called Cascade. It was around this time that we began to have some different experiences with locks, still long and wide but also deep. Sometimes there were floating bollards in the lock and providing they were conveniently spaced for a 17 metre long boat were a great help. Other times there were ladders that had a bollard on every fourth rung which enabled ropes to be moved very easily to keep the boat alongside the lock wall. Other times it was not quite so easy with roping points in the lock wall but not in line so we had to co-ordinate movement of the boat back and forth to adjust ropes accordingly. Fortunately the locks were gentle giving time to manoeuvre. That evening, thanks to the advise from the people in Namur, we found a pleasant mooring with water and electricity on the Branche de Bellecourt.
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Water skiing on the Meuse
Leaving our overnight mooring we moved onto the Canal du Centre (Belgium) with pleasant green scenery, and on that day we only saw six commercial barges in sharp contrast to the previous two days. Our first challenge that day was to negotiate the Strepy-Thieu boat lift. This was our first ever boat lift. We approached a structure and from a distance we were a bit puzzled. It turned out not to be the lift but something that could be used as a stop barrage. Then we did arrive at the lift. An incredible structure, a real feat of engineering, it raises and lowers boats 73 metres.
We had the green light to enter and shared the lift with a small commercial barge which gave us plenty of space. With a few groaning noises, reminiscent of the noises of a ghost train, the system began to function and we gently descended. Seven minutes later we were at the same level as the water in front of us and we floated out of the lift safe and sound.
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The stop barrage
The next port of call was Mons which proved to be a good port. The harbourmasters had seen us approaching the port and were there using hand signals to indicate where we should moor. They gave us a lovely greeting, useful maps of the area and were happy to help with the filling of the water tank before we took our leave. We needed to clear Peronne before the 22nd of the month and that was our next stop over point. The journey during the morning was fairly peaceful but by lunch time the 'quiet period' stopped and the commercial traffic became more evident with one barge coupled up to another and pushing it through. We have been told that this is to overcome the difficulty in the rise in prices of fuel but it just may be normal practice in this part of Europe. At this time we were having some niggling thoughts about our fuel. It was a while since we had filled the tank. We were reliably informed that there was a small fuel tanker, Neptunia, at a place called Antoing. The whole set up turned out to be very impressive with a bigger boat behind the small tanker catering for the commercial barges, not only with fuel but also crates of beer and a well stocked chandlery! We did not buy beer but were pleased to be able to fill with tank with diesel.
We were aiming for Tournai, a short journey away, but had no indication of availability of moorings so it was with a smile on our faces that we saw a pontoon mooring with water and electricity. A stock of 50 centime pieces meant a steady supply of electricity and enabled us to top up with water. The mooring was within a short walking distance of the town and once we had sorted out a bank where we could draw out some cash we were able to stock up fridge and cupboards. We have learned to take advantage of opportunities to replenish supplies of water, fuel and food when travelling through new waters. One never knows what facilities are going to be found. Tournai had mixed blessings. We met some lovely people, including a charming gentleman , a carpenter who had his workshop virtually opposite the small port, who took a great interest in the boat. He brought his daughter to visit the boat and his daughter brought her brother. This gentleman was kind enough to saw a piece of oak that Paul had bought some time ago and had been looking for the means of getting it cut. We offered to recompense him for his work but he flatly refused. We visited his workshop on the morning of our departure to say goodbye. Whilst moored at Tournai there were barges that travelled fast and Idling By moved on the pontoon. On one occasion the drawers were flung open as were the cupboard doors and the armchairs slid across the saloon floor. Not a pleasant experience but no harm done. There was a repeat performance at Bossuit where we were moored overnight waiting to move onto calmer waters.
Barges saving fuel.
Leaving Tournai we had to wait for a green light as there is a one way system through the town. We waited for our chance and when a barge moved in the same direction as us, we followed. It was interesting to see this huge barge gently moving under a bridge with very little space to spare. They are certainly very skilled bargees. An overnight stay at Bossuit gave us the opportunity to move into a quieter stretch of water and after a first difficult deep lock climbing, some strange water currents, we had a relatively relaxed journey to Kortrijk. In fact there was a surprise. We knew that we had to go down three locks before entering the mooring. Amazingly the three locks resembled the manual English locks bringing back a lot of boating memories. However, there was a lock keeper to take us through and understandably as he had to get clearance for us to leave the third lock and enter the one way system to enter the port and then we were definitely in Flanders, the Flemish speaking part of Belgium.
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Neptunia
We have been at Kortrijk for a few days. It is our first visit to the town and it has been interesting to visit and learn about some of the history. Our learning was helped by an invitation from a Belgian couple to have Sunday breakfast with them after a chance meeting and some discussion about narrow boats. After breakfast the gentleman kindly accompanied us to visit the charming Begijnhof which is a town within a town dating back to the 17th century. As we entered into the area which is just off the main square the atmosphere was incredible, quiet, calm, relaxing. The area was founded by women, not nuns, but had a strong religious belief in peace. The buildings have been well preserved and people actually rent the homes which of course helps with maintaining an area steeped in history. Seeing photographs of the main square after the bombardments of the second world war it is incredible to see how it has been reconstructed in the spirit of the traditional architecture. There are some beautiful churches and one in particular with a dominant spire which can be seen from various points in the town. In the square is a Belfry a remnant of a medieval cloth hall which since 1994 has had a carillon with 48 bells, it sounds delightful. Admittedly Idling By bounced on the pontoon from time to time when the barges passed by the cut but the cupboard doors, and drawers stayed closed and the armchairs in their rightful place and we thoroughly enjoyed our stay.
Begijnhof
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Sillouette of a sign at the tourist office in the cycle friendly town of Kortrijk
September is now drawing to an end and so it will soon be time for us to move on. No doubt we may have to do battle with commercial barges from time to time and negotiate just a few locks to arrive at Armentieres, a couple of leisurely days boating. Then we need to become organised for the winter and look forward to visitors on the run up to Christmas. Time flies!